Wildest Bite - Veal Brains

I was raised in a middle-class home by a first-generation mother and immigrant father. Assimilation informed mealtime, and nearly everything I ate as a child was garden variety American with the occasional exception of a Croatian menu, usually around the holidays. As a result, I began my adult life with an impressively bland palate. My experimentation with new, unfamiliar foods came as I started traveling regularly for a career in advertising.

Years later, when I worked as publisher of Food & Wine and Travel + Leisure, my culinary horizons suddenly opened up dramatically. I was fortunate to dine regularly in some of the best restaurants in America and abroad frequently. And I’ve enjoyed many great meals at home because my husband and group of friends are exceptional, adventurous cooks.

As my palate expanded, I’ve become committed to trying new dishes anytime they’re offered, with one notable exception of which I’m not proud. I have an aversion to game birds. It’s more of a texture and presentation issue than flavor. For many years, I enjoyed elaborate multiple-course tasting menus prepared by some of the greatest chefs in the world. Inevitably, because most chefs worship game birds, there was an endless parade of squab, partridge, pheasant and quail dishes. I became quite skilled at moving things around the plate, mastering my culinary sleight of hand.

On a vacation to Paris in 2017, my husband and I mapped out a mix of classic and innovative new restaurants. At Clown Bar, my husband was insistent that we try veal brains – one of several signature dishes wildly popular with savvy diners. It’s hard to mistake the dish for anything other than what it appears to be. If I didn’t know what it was, I’d have devoured it. It was delicious, but I still had a hard time getting past its anatomical correctness.

I was surprised that I really enjoyed it. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect brains to taste like, but it arrived in a complex chilled dashi that was remarkably delicious. It’s a must try!

I can say with confidence we have not cooked brains at home, and if and when I see it on a menu, I would probably opt out. But I’d love to go back to Clown Bar again on our next trip to Paris and have the dish again.