Against the Grain

Despite their distinct culinary styles, Blackberry Farm Chef Cassidee Dabney and Chef Grant Achatz share a unified vision: crafting unforgettable dishes and experiences that linger with guests long after the meal ends. Ahead of Chef Achatz’s 2025 return to Blackberry Farm for the annual Passing the Torch event, the two chefs met to talk about his approach to innovation, idea exploration and the culture he nurtures in his kitchen.

Cassidee: Among many deserved awards and accolades, you’re known quite well for your progressive culinary style and work with molecular gastronomy. As you built your career, when did you decide you wanted to make the switch from making food to pushing culinary boundaries?

Grant: I always had an insatiable curiosity as a child. As my career matured and I learned the fundamentals, my interest shifted back to curiosity which led to the outside-of-the-box thinking. After a trip to Spain to stage at El Bulli in 2001, I knew my style would pivot to a modernist approach.

Cassidee: When people read the name or the description of a dish, they have an expectation of what they’re about to experience. With your experimentation, you purposefully put flavors in unexpected forms or present in an unexpected way. How does that play into the tone of a meal? What do you observe as your diners dive into a familiar flavor in a very unfamiliar presentation?

Grant: We like to pull on all kinds of emotions during the dining experience, trying to make the meal personal, meaningful and sometimes magical. Part of that magic is experiencing mystery, surprise and discovery. I like to compare the hiding-in-plain-sight technique to being presented with a giant, beautifully wrapped box with a highly anticipated gift inside. The anticipation, excitement and the “ah-ha” moment make the meal feel like watching a great movie.

Cassidee: Do you observe your team members trying newer creations to see if they need tweaking? When do you know a dish is ready for the menu?

Grant: Since Alinea opened in 2005, we’ve made it a priority to aggressively self-edit. Flavor comes first; it is food, after all. We could invent the coolest new technique ever, but if the outcome does not taste delicious, we continue to explore ways to make it delicious or we move on.

Cassidee: At Blackberry Farm, we explore a balance between serving dishes that feel familiar to our guests, with our own twist of course, and inviting them to enjoy something surprising. I think guests who come to enjoy your food know that they’re in for an adventure. But do you ever consider wanting a dish to feel less adventurous?

Grant: We intentionally include at least one course that we call “the grounder.” This touchstone is a valuable tool to not only satisfy guests in a comforting and maybe nostalgic way, but also to use as a reference point, helping show the evolution of gastronomy by juxtaposing old versus new.

Cassidee: Presentation can have a huge impact. There’s a moment before the first bite when I watch guests take in the look of a dish, especially when it looks different than they anticipated. I think people look at your dishes and the intricacy of the plating makes them think that the dish itself is com- plicated, but some dishes are built with pretty simple ingredients, and it’s the look that gives it personality. When you’re visualizing a dish, do you start with the flavor profile you want to use? Or do you have a vision of the plating you want, and you work backward from there? How does the process work for you?

Grant: It works both ways. We have created several dishes that are inspired by forms. Sometimes a painting ’s brush strokes, fluidity, colors, shadowing and depth are mirrored in our presentations. Other times, we create structural, custom serviceware to help create a cohesive presentation. Often, we do start with a compelling flavor combination or a specific seasonal ingredient. Sometimes the flavor combinations or the appearance of the ingredients inspires custom serviceware to produce an unusual, cohesive aesthetic.

Cassidee: I think your food often pushes people outside of their comfort zone. They’re encouraged to be a bit braver in their meal, to really experience everything that’s placed before them. At The Barn, we invite guests to be present through our farm-to-table philosophy, really fostering a connection to the ingredients they’re tasting. What do you hope your guests experience during a meal you’ve created?

Grant: Deliciousness and an evocation of all the personal emotions that make us who we are.

Cassidee: What inspires you to keep reinventing traditional dining norms? And what role does teamwork play in your creative process?

Grant: The definition of Alinea is “the beginning of a new train of thought.” Constant evolution is our name and ethos. Alinea without change is simply not Alinea.

Cassidee: Have you ever surprised yourself with how a dish turned out?

Grant: Sometimes, in both directions. I can be wildly confident that we will be able to “figure out” a new way to create something, for example, the Edible Balloon. But other times, and with that same confidence, no matter how hard we all work on it, it never comes to fruition.

Cassidee: There’s an idea among non-chefs that we eat at home the way we cook in our restaurants. That’s definitely not true for me. What’s your typical post-shift or pre-shift meal at home look like?

Grant: Most often pasta, chicken tenders from the air fryer and ice cream.

Cassidee: Just for fun, tell me about a meal or a dish you’ve had that you wish you could experience for the first time again.

Grant: My first meal at The French Laundry, hands down. I ate there with my father the day after he helped me move into my apartment before starting work at the restaurant. This was his introduction to a restaurant above the local country club, and it was a pretty good start. Our minds were blown – giant dollops of caviar, seared foie gras, wagyu beef, lobster seasoned with witty humor and flawless execution. Chef Thomas Keller appeared at the end of the meal to say hello. After walking away, the captain told us the chef took care of the check. I had not completed a day of work yet. Showing my dad the caliber of restaurant and chef I moved across the country to be a part of was an incredible life memory-making experience.

Want to enjoy the rare opportunity to experience Chef Grant Achatz's food at Blackberry Farm? Join us in August for Passing the Torch 2025. Click to learn more and make your reservation.